(Continued from the Home page...)
source: McCormick Spices
In the biblical story of the Magi, three kings from the exotic reaches
of the Orient give gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh to the
newborn Jesus Christ. Frankincense and myrrh were rare, very expensive
spices of the time. And in the 5th century, the prophet Mohammed, from
the merchant tribe of the Quoraïchites, took advantage of the spice
trade to spread his messages. People were more inclined to listen to
what he had to say, given that he was selling irresistible spices.
Spices in the Middle Ages
From the 10th century on, the crusades prompted a rediscovery of
spices; seasonings made an obvious comeback to the tables of the great
and powerful European courts. Brought to the Mediterranean basin by
Italian ships, the "wealth of the Orient" was subsequently sold at
market fairs to supply the Northern European countries. At this time,
spiced wines from Italy and Spain were very popular.
Certain spices were worth so much that one of them even became
currency: pepper. In court, litigants bribed judges with spices. A
prototype of sugared almonds, some spices were covered in honey in
order to disguise them as candy. Their culinary and medicinal uses
overlapped, and grocers and apothecarists often worked in the same
companies. Besides traditional black pepper, some of the other prized
spices of the era were long pepper from Sumatra, ginger, cloves,
cinnamon, nutmeg, and galanga (a ginger-like spice from Southeast
Asia).
European Navigators Set Sail
As with any great discovery, the opening of the Southern seaboard
spice route was no accident. Portuguese navigators and geographers had
been working at it for over a half-century. Henry the navigator, who
encouraged exploration of the African coast, was the most famous of
them.
Christopher Columbus set sail in 1492 to head West and find gold and
spices, hoping to hit the Indian coast where these precious
commodities could be found. Controlling and supplying the spice market
were key objectives for the Portuguese and Spanish powers at the time
in their goal to overturn the Arab and Venetian monopoly in the
Mediterranean.
Vasco de Gama crossed the Cape of Good Hope in 1497 and arrived in
India in 1498. The Arab merchants were shocked to see a Portuguese man
on Indian shores. "We are looking for Christians and spices," stated
the Portuguese navigator, and with that, the Arabs saw their monopoly
crumble. In the centuries to follow, often the country with the
strongest navy was able to gain dominion over the areas where spices
originated. The Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, and British
empires all enjoyed leading roles in running the trade routes for a
time. In fact, the last of these great spice monopolies, the Dutch,
remained in existence until the outbreak of World War II.
In the late 17th century, America benefited indirectly from the spice
trade. Boston-born Elihu Yale grew up in England, where he worked as a
clerk for the British East India Company, which held a monopoly on all
trade with India. The company's ships brought the first cargo of
nutmeg and cloves from the Moluccas Islands in Indonesia. Yale
eventually became governor of Madras, India, and his spice fortune
helped endow Yale University.
But the economic value of these products declined as farming sites
increased. The Dutch jealously protected access to the Moluccas for
fear of seeing their clove and nutmeg trees exported to other regions,
which would have ruined their monopoly. Thievery of this sort was
punishable by death. After many attempts, a few pepper and nutmeg
trees were successfully transplanted on Mauritius Island. This
eventually led to a dispersion of plant production sites across Dutch,
English, and French colonial empires, which involved spices in
addition to coffee, cocoa, and many other plants. The tight reins on
the industry were loosening.
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And what about Columbus? He certainly didn't make it to India, nor did
he find the spices he was looking for, but he did stumble upon some
significant additions to the world's cuisine. His exploration of the
Caribbean islands, and others following his footsteps like Hernán
Cortés in Mexico, uncovered bold new flavors that have become
favorites all over the globe: familiar names like red pepper (which we
know today as a wide variety of chiles), vanilla, and allspice.
America Joins the Trade
In the late 18th and 19th centuries, Americans became directly
involved in the spice business as the sleek clipper ships of New
England began to dominate world trade. So many pepper voyages were
undertaken from New England to Sumatra that the price of pepper
dropped to less than three cents a pound in 1843, a disastrous slump
that affected many aspects of American business.
Ultimately the New England spice trade fell off sharply when piracy in
the Java and China Seas made long voyages for pepper too dangerous.
Meanwhile, the American spice business, like the rest of the country,
was moving west. In 1835, American settlers in Texas developed chili
powder by combining various ground red peppers from Mexico, thus
adding new dimensions to American taste. Later, once the gold rush had
subsided, herbs were grown commercially in California. Mustard seed
was grown in North Dakota, Montana, and Canada's prairie provinces.
Where Are We Now?
Today, colonial empires have all but vanished, spices are used
in almost everything we eat, and costs are relatively low. It is
hard to imagine that these fragrant bits of leaves, seeds, and
bark were once so coveted and costly. For centuries wars were
waged, new lands discovered, and the earth circled, all in the
quest of spices.
Thanks to the vogue of international travel, we can engage in
our own spice conquest now. We can stroll through market stalls
around the world where spices, perfumes, and exotic plants and
flowers enchant the senses. And when we take these scents and
tastes of far-reaching places back to our homes, we are again
compelled to discover the allure of the unknown.
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